Beach bars: chiringuitos
The chiringuito is the beach's kitchen and living room: some are simple huts with cold beer and fried fish, others full restaurants with their feet in the sand. Knowing which is which protects both lunch and budget.
Two species, two prices
The classic hut charges hut prices for sardines, bravas and sand-between-toes atmosphere. The restaurant-format ones on the sand charge center-city prices for the same sea view; both are legitimate, just know which you chose.
Lunch hours matter
Kitchens typically open around one and pause between four and evening; the beach-party ones in summer run later with music. A two-o'clock lunch gets you the full menu and the local rhythm.
What to order
Fried little fish, a good paella's cheap cousin arroz a banda when offered, gazpacho in August and tinto de verano over sangria. Anything frozen and fluorescent is for tourists only.